The town of Independence CA is the Gateway to Discovery. For many people that gateway is found on the Onion Valley Road. This road lies west of Independence and leads to the trailhead for the Kearsarge Pass trail as well as two other scenic trails. Many people know that the trailhead is located 9200 feet in elevation and is one of the most direct routes to the Pacific Crest Trail. Hikers from all over the world have used this magnificent trail to resupply on their journeys through the Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks.
But the road to Onion Valley is more than an easy destination to a great trailhead. Along its 13.8 mile stretch one passes over and through a significant amount of pioneer history and geological epochs. To begin the journey head west on Market Street in Independence. This is the midpoint of town where the post office is located on the southwest corner of the intersection. On the right a block and a half up the street notice the historical marker for the Mary Austin home. This home is a private residence today and there are no tours. Across the street on the left are the facilities of the Los Angeles Department of Water and Power. Their presence in Independence and the Owens Valley have a long and storied history.
A little further west are the outdoor displays of the Eastern California Museum. Here is a great resource of information of all the Owens Valley. The friendly and courteous staff could immediately direct you to interests of all kinds throughout the valley.
Crossing the cattle guard you are already out of the town site of Independence. Notice the county campground located by the creek. This is an economical place to camp especially if one wishes to explore the town. Most points of interest in the town are within pleasant walking distances from this site. Fishing at this location is surprisingly good. Fish are stocked here weekly from the first weekend of March to the end of the regular fishing season.
Traveling a bit further west one will see a variety of unmarked dirt roads heading south. Most of these roads are access points to the places where the Department of Water and Power will spread excess water from Independence Creek in high run off years. This helps to recharge the underground aquifers and provides a pleasant place for locals to walk in the early evenings. From these locations one can view great vistas of Mt Williamson, Manzanar National Historic Site, and in the distance the Alabama Hills west of Lone Pine.
But we are not even up the road two miles yet and there is still much to observe. Notice the riparian vegetation of Independence Creek on the right. When you see the first large pine tree you are looking at the site of one of the early ranch houses on Independence Creek. If you were to take the dirt road to the site you would find underneath the trees what is left of the foundation of this ranch house. Please be careful if you drive to the location. The road is washed out in places and it is also a nice fishing spot for some of us locals.
Further west on the Onion Valley road one comes to an outcropping of rocks known to locals as rattlesnake butte. Yes the place is appropriately named. Rattlesnakes are frequently seen on this road in the early hours of the day in the springtime.
Just beyond the butte on the left is the turn off for Foothill Road. This is all gravel and follows the foothills of the Eastern Sierra. A sturdy vehicle is needed if one wishes to travel all the way down to the Alabama Hills. If one were to do so one would pass Symmes Creek and pack animal trailhead, Shepherd Creek and the turn off for the Shepherd Pass trail, North and South Fork of Bairs Creeks, and eventually cross over Georges Creek.
But let’s keep heading toward Onion Valley. Just beyond the foothill turn off one sees immediately to the left a small stand of cottonwood trees. This marks the place where there is access to Pinyon Creek trailhead. Among the trees is the location where a scene in the movie Trial and Error was shot.
Up the road a short distance are the campgrounds Lower and Upper Grays Meadow. Here underneath the oaks and pines is a great place to fish and explore. Located at nearly 6000 feet in elevation these are very pleasant places to camp overnight in the summer.
Above the campground is the Seven Pines housing tract. These home sites are leased from the Forest Service. These are private residences. Please respect the private property as you drive or walk through and fish this portion of the creek.
Just beyond Seven Pines notice the point where Independence Creek flows under the road. If one were to stop here and look up the canyon one could locate several sites where rock walls and foundations can be observed. This was home to a community called Kearsarge. It was quite the thriving mining town and was once considered as a possible candidate for the location of the county seat. An avalanche destroyed most of the town and several people lost their lives. Ask about this interesting history at the Eastern California Museum.
As one moves higher up the road notice the mine site and ranch on the left. There are even evidences of a small fruit orchard on this site. The dirt road heading toward the creek is part of the old dirt road to Onion Valley that was in use many years ago. Evidences of portions of this road are visible from many locations.
Not far beyond this point is the first serious switchback up the mountain. At this first sharp left turn you may notice a road heading to the right where there is a locked gate. This road leads to several interesting sites. The road terminates at the old Rex Montis mine on the north face of Kearsarge Mountain well above 11,000 feet in elevation. Many evidences of mining activity can be seen along the way. One can see the destructive power of avalanches where steel beams have been twisted like pretzels. Also along this dirt road is the access point to Little Onion Valley. Two canyons, Lime and Sardine, are also passed on this road. Access to Parker Lakes also begins here, but that hike is only for the very serious and experienced. There is no trail and manzanita brush covers a large area of the canyon.
Further along the Onion Valley road notice the various geological formations. Granite towers of rock loom high above. It is possible to see evidences of the old Owens River in the valley below with a prominent fault line running north and south through the valley.
Less than a mile away from the parking lot there is a dirt road that veers sharply to the right. It is more easily observed when returning down the road to Independence. This road is more like a driveway to the trailhead of Kearsarge Mountain. The trail is not maintained. Experienced hikers will be able to follow the terrain of the canyon and once over the initial ridge will be able to find the switchbacks that lead to the summit. Along this hike there are evidences of old stone cabins and several cables left over from the early mining explorations. Imagine what mining was like at such elevations.
The parking lot at the trailhead is as far as one can drive regardless of what some maps from Europe seem to indicate. Here one may travel the main trail which passes Little Pothole, Gilbert, Flower, Heart, and Big Pothole lakes before ascending Kearsarge Pass. But also note the trail through the campground that leads to Robinson Lake. This is a steep trail. From Robinson Lake the experienced hiker can reach Independence Peak. For the truly adventurous there is the hike from Robinson Lake all the way down to Pinyon Creek Trailhead. This is an extremely challenging course. Note well the rock formation called by the locals “The Coffin.” It is appropriately named.
The third trailhead out of the parking lot leads to the four Golden Trout Lakes. This trail leads one up to the falls that can be seen off to the right. It is about two miles from that location to the first lake. Also from Golden Trout Lakes is access to the west side of Kearsarge Mountain. Dragon Pass is also a challenging hike for the experienced. The trail is not maintained.
Remember to prepare well for all trips into the High Sierra. Onion Valley road is not maintained in the winter months and is often closed to all vehicles. This creates wonderful opportunities for cross country skiing and snow shoeing. The road is maintained up to Seven Pines.
Have a wonderful journey and remember that Independence is truly the Gateway to Discovery!